Sadly no. Not yet.

Due to the seat shape, the GX470 presents some additional design challenges regarding the MOLLE panel.

I'm working on it and should have something figured out soon.

I'm super proud of this joint actually. Probably the biggest challenge and coolest solution of the whole project.

In order to make the arm as strong as physically possible, I wanted to print the "post" part (which wraps around the headrest post) and the "claw" part (which holds the fire extinguisher) in different orientations, so the layer lines were running exactly the way I wanted them.

This meant I had to connect two pieces somehow. I experimented with the obvious nut-and-bolt connections, added interlocking pieces and dowels - but just wasn't super happy with any of these.

There wasn't any good info about engineering-grade joinery for 3D Printed parts. So I started looking at traditional Japanese wood joinery. These joints are on buildings which have stood for thousands of years, using no nails or modern fasteners - just wood dowels.

After looking at all the different joints, I felt the Kanawa Tsugi was the one for me. It just looked like it fit the space and shape of the piece.

I started by exactly recreating a Kanawa Tsugi joint in CAD, and printing the two halves of the joint in different orientations, as I planned to print my production piece.

The joint worked wonderfully but it had some issues with the print due to angles in the joint at the orientations I was printing.

To get rid of these problems I decided to 3D-Print-Optimize the Kanawa Tsugi joint and come up with my own geometry that mimicked the overall idea of the Japanese joint, while using angles that were compatible with 3D Printing in multiple orientations.

So that is how my modified Kanawa Tsugi joint came about. It prints in three possible orientations, and comes out perfectly no matter which. It locks up just like a traditional Kanawa Tsugi, and the tightness and strength are much stronger than nuts and bolts, in my opinion. The assembled joint does not move. And this is what I wanted in my production piece.

If you zoom in on the CAD screenshots, you can see that the arms of the GX460 QRK are notably longer than the GX470 model. This is just due to seat shape differences. The 460 version uses a bit more Carbon Fiber Nylon material (which isn't cheap) and more print time as well.

As for the QRK460 Upper MOLLE Panel, this more than doubles the material and print time, as well as adding to hardware costs, print prep, and assembly time. The two panel arms require a separate print, and the panel itself requires another separate print - just due to the size of these parts. There is no way to print them in batches of multiples, and each Upper unit sold requires two one-off prints.

There are many misconceptions and a lot of bias against 3D Printing for a variety of reasons. Often due to the fact that most hobbyists print useless trinkets, toys, and figurines. As well as that fact that the most common 3D Printing material is PLA (Polylactic Acid) - which has excellent properties for the FDM printing process (Fused Deposition Modeling), but is not ideal for many functional parts - especially parts exposed to heat, like inside a black vehicle in summer, or under the hood.

G-REX exclusively uses a material called PA6-CF, which is a Nylon-6 polymer, reinforced with 20% chopped carbon fibers by weight. This nylon material is extremely tough in its own right. It is super resistant to heat, abrasion, and breakage. It's often used for 3D Printed gears and other functional parts that undergo real-world stresses.

By reinforcing this resilient nylon material with carbon fibers, we get the stiffness of carbon fiber in addition to the toughness of the nylon. This takes away the tendency to flex, sag, or creep, like unreinforced nylon and almost every other 3D Printing material you can name. It's actually so stiff I had to redesign some of my prototypes to add flex into the part where I needed it - because it just would not flex. It easily outperforms ABS and ASA plastic in heat resistance and strength, which is what most plastic parts on vehicles are made of.

Carbon Fiber Nylon also has a lucky benefit of premium surface quality. The texture of the material helps hide layer lines from the 3D Printing process, and looks more like a cast plastic part than a printed one. It also feels great in the hand - not like "plastic" - more like a hardened fabric - very similar to the feel of Micarta handles on a high-end knife.

The print quality is elite. I dehumidify the air in my print room, and completely dehydrate the Carbon Fiber Nylon material for 24-hours before storing it in a custom-made dry box where it feeds into the printer through an air-tight PTFE (Teflon) tube so it's never exposed to moisture which could affect print quality. Everything we make is printed on an industry-leading Bambu X1 Carbon with custom material-specific calibration and settings researched, tested, and developed by yours truly. Temperatures, flow rate, retraction and cooling settings, pressure advance, print tolerances, and volumetric speed - all super-tuned for this material, which is the only material we use.

As G-REX grows, I plan to move to a very expensive process called SLS, using a $50,000 printer setup. These SLS parts will be superior, but our current FDM parts are most likely the highest quality 3D Print you or anyone you know has ever handled.

With that said, it's still an FDM Printed part, and may show slight layer lines and small cosmetic blobs or flaws inherent to the FDM process, which do not affect function and will not be noticeable except under close scrutiny. Any parts that don't meet my standards for beauty will be scrapped or sold in my Blem & Bargain section on the website.

All my designs are 3D Print optimized wherever possible, taking into account the orientation the part will print in, and the desired direction of the layer lines. 3D Printed parts are strongest in two dimensions, with a 30-40% weakness in the third, where cracks can form between layer lines. Think of trying to rip a whole phonebook versus splitting open a phonebook. Any area critical to the strength of my parts is printed with layer lines oriented in the strongest possible direction.

If you need the strongest possible fire extinguisher mount for racing or whatever reason, check out the Extreme Duty Universal Mounts from industry-leader H3R Performance. They're designed to meet MIL-STD-810G and withstand inertia loads in excess of 27G. Unfortunately they do not make anything vehicle-specific for Lexus or Toyota, so you will need to drill and bolt these to a sturdy steel mounting point somewhere in your vehicle.

After researching fire extinguishers on the market, I came away with some important points.

I'm not satisfied the Element fire sticks effectively put out fires - especially vehicle fires, but also...not even campfires (search YouTube). So even though the Element is a great form factor with zero maintenance, they're not for me and I wouldn't recommend them to a friend. They're also pretty expensive.

The smaller and cheaper "Fire Spray" aerosol products I've seen are packaged in thin plastic bottles or tin cans, and can't be allowed to freeze or handle much heat without bursting. I feel their temperature range is not suitable for my intended use, and I wouldn't recommend them to a friend for this application. I do think they're great stashed all around the house though!

The higher-tier brands like Amerex and Buckeye make excellent quality fire extinguishers, but not in smaller sizes like these 80mm thick First Alert units. In my opinion, they're too big and heavy for most mounting locations inside a mid-size SUV like the Lexus GX, Toyota 4Runner, or Ford Bronco. They're also three to four times the price - and my goal here is to get as many people armed with fire suppression as possible.

Probably the top-tier options for vehicle-mounted fire protection are the HalGuard Clean Agent Car Fire Extinguishers from industry-leader H3R Performance, who also makes some very nice universal aluminum mounting brackets. However, these premium offerings command premium prices, and I'm not sure everyone wants to spend that much on every offroad vehicle.

In the future we will likely experiment with the H3R HalGuard line of automotive fire extinguishers and possibly offer vehicle-specific mounting solutions for those as well.

In the meantime, I'm personally satisfied that these First Alert units will put up with extreme heat in direct sunlight, and extreme freezing temperatures (-33ºF last winter), because I've had one in my tractor for years - and it's in perfect condition, except for the fading paint from all the sun.

If I get enough demand for other fire extinguishers, I will certainly look into them and see what I can do.

We've had some comments about the potential for facial-impact hazard to rear seat passengers.

These concerns are certainly valid and foreseeable. Let's look at some data for a second.

According to the University of Michigan's 2022 report on Personal Transportation*, in 2019 average US car occupancy was only 1.5 persons per car, and in 2020, 75% of workers drove to and from work alone. Additionally, according to a report by Esurance**, your chances of getting into an auto accident on a 1,000-mile trip are 1 in 366, and the average driver will file a collision-related insurance claim just once every 18 years.

Clearly, most people are not hauling backseat passengers most of the time, and most people are not crashing their vehicles most of the time.

As I've called out above, this product relies on the End User's judgement as to whether it's an appropriate solution for their application - like all aftermarket modification done by the End User. The QRK Headrest Mounts are easily removed from the vehicle whenever desired. The GX470 version works great on the second-row seats as well. By purchasing, installing, or using our products, you are acknowledging and agreeing to our Safety Disclaimer.

If you need the strongest possible fire extinguisher mount for racing or whatever reason, check out the Extreme Duty Universal Mounts from industry-leader H3R Performance. They're designed to meet MIL-STD-810G and withstand inertia loads in excess of 27G.

*Personal Transportation Factsheet
**Esurance Report

Print-Bed Adhesive. An absolute necessity for printing Carbon Fiber Nylon.

I clean it off all the parts after printing, but sometimes a slight residue remains. Sorry about that!

IPA (Rubbing Alcohol), Windex, or Dish Soap should all work great at removing it.